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Voyages
Ports of Call
Anchorages
Our
Current Location
Miscellaneous:
CHHS
Orphan Relief
Economy
Your Own Diet
Team Tempo
Date of Last
Update:
January 21, 2009
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Join Chris and Jackie Lambertsen and their two cats,
Nevis and Saba, in Galicia, Spain during August, 2003.
Galicia, the northwest corner of Spain
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SHIBUMI has arrived in the big city! After weeks of
sauntering around the small towns in the Azores, we are startled to reenter
big city life of La Coruna with 250,000+ residents. Blessed with cool
weather in the midst of a European hot wave when Paris and Madrid
experienced 100 degree temperatures, we slept under comforters at night as
temperatures in Galicia dropped below 70 and daytime temperatures exceeded 80.
As we adjusted to crowded street life, we met a Spanish
couple while trying to order in a tapas restaurant during Emily's last meal
with us. Sitting next to our table, Javier Sanchez and Carmen Leis,
who
lived in Houston, Texas, during the 90's, watched in amusement as we "cut
and dice" the tapas menu. To our relief, Javier interceded and
helped us arrange a fine meal of sautéed octopus, pan-fried green
peppers, grilled shrimps, and two bottles of local wine. We meet them
later in the week and discover the essence of travel: the joy of
seeing the region through the eyes of locals who obviously love it! |
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We made landfall in a quiet bay across from the main
port at 0200 on Tuesday, July 29th and slept. In the afternoon, we motored west
to the main transient boating harbor east of the fort at Castillo de San
Anton. That's SHIBUMI to the left of the lighthouse.
Formalities to check into Spain were minimal but since we were anchored in
the harbor without paying for either a slip or a mooring, the Real Club
Nautico employees were adamant to the point of being rude that we could not use any club facilities. They would not even answer any questions
about local marine services without payment. A real adjustment after
the friendliness of the Azores. We used another dingy dock and everything
was fine.
Our next hurdle was adjusting to the Spanish time table. Spain uses the same time zone as the rest of Europe
which means that "sun time" is late. The sun rises at 0730 and sets at
2200 (no kidding!). Restaurants open at 1400 for lunch between
1400-1600 and 2100 for dinner at 2200-2400. Nightlife starts at
midnight and lasts until 0400. This almost sounds like a watch
schedule. Whew! |
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The plus
to eating lunch at 3 pm and dinner at 10 pm is that you also need to
take a siesta after lunch to really adapt to the lifestyle. This took
no getting used to at all! La
Coruna is a modern city enveloping two older sections: one from
medieval times called Cuilad Vieja and the other created when the isthmus
sanded up three hundred years ago called Real Puerto. The city's
nickname is "the city of glass" or "the crystal city" due to the many glassed-in balconies
overlooking the port and the streets of the older parts of the city.
The glass balconies allow the residents to enjoy the city in any weather and
provide a heat source in the winter.
Hercules Torre, pictured left, is the oldest working
lighthouse in the world. Built in the 2nd century during a Roman occupation to direct
ships into the port, the original lighthouse was enveloped with
the current facade in the early 19th century to protect the Roman ruins. It
is visually striking from land and from sea.
Municipal attractions include 13 museums, an aquarium,
two forts, the tower of Hercules, a sculpture park, three fresh (open air) markets, great city bus service, a tourist
trolley that encircles the peninsula, city gardens, and upscale shopping
districts where you can literally find anything ... in Spanish. |
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Which brings us to our next hurdle: learning enough
Spanish to successfully navigate our trips ashore. Our Spanish courses
on CD and tapes aboard SHIBUMI are unpacked as we venture into the unknown.
Jackie has the easier time since she creates words in English anyway!
Each morning at coffee, we announce the day of the week to each other:
"Hoy es Sabado, Agosto noveno!" Very slowly, and not very surely, we
learn Spanish. Once again, we
were spoiled in the Azores where English was a second language taught in
school. Galicia is on the same
latitude as Boston, MA, and exhibits much of the features of the US
northeast coast, including dramatic tides of 12-20 feet. Their history
dates back to prehistoric times and we look forward to visiting castros, the
circular home-sites of prehistoric man, Celtic ruins, Roman ruins, and modern
towns. Once again, we adjust our schedule to stay awhile
in this lovely region as we have no hurry to move south into the heat of
August. Our current plans are to winter in the Canary Islands so that
we can haul the boat in January and then sail all winter. |
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