2006 12 01

 

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Date of Last Update:
January 21, 2009

 

SHIBUMI sails to Venezuela in 2006

2006 began with the end of our charter endeavors, or at least we thought it did.  We decided to forego the joys of paying guests aboard SHIBUMI after the U.S. government enforced their requirement that any commercial vessel, no matter what the size, had to electronically check into and out of U.S. waters within 24 hours prior to their arrival or departure. 

This was inconvenient or impossible for private charter boats as there are few reliable internet cafes in the islands.  No one  knew how tightly the U.S. would monitor ship movements.  Our first experience using the fifteen screens on the DHS (Department of Homeland Security) web site fulfilling this requirement lasted over 30 minutes.  Someone needs to educate those government folks on processing efficiency and effectiveness

In addition, the British Virgin Islands created a whole new system of charter boat requirements designed to drive any foreign charter vessels out of the region.  We were 90% through those requirements when we faced the DHS entry/exit ones.  And so we threw up our hands and bid farewell to chartering. 

Later we heard a rumor that the U.S. Virgin Islands had passed a new rule that everyone on a boat in their waters had to wear a life preserver – at all times.  Vacationers on charter yachts will love that boating experience, believe you me. The rule will be repealed, but it is an example of un-necessary  government action and misdirected safety requirements.

But the New Year's Day rainbow portrayed good winds and fair sailing for 2006.

January:   St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands

Immediately after the New Year’s guests departed, the famous Christmas winds arrived and we spent the next three weeks riding from harbor to harbor in St. Thomas anchored in 25 mph winds which gusted to 45.  A little advice to anyone thinking about chartering in the winter in the Virgins:  wait until at least late February.

Happily Chris encountered old friends from his teenage years on Philadelphia. Here at dinner courtesy of Cindy are Jeff and his dad, Pat, aboard Slipstream. We were best of family friends through a bit of college until we entered our professional careers, me as a physician and Jeff and his wife Cindy in a successful charter operation with several boats that lasted more than 15 years.

We met by chance after more than 30 years in Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas. We'll try to keep in closer touch from here on.

February:  Spanish Virgin Islands

During February, 2006, we explored the Spanish Virgin Islands which are actually out-islands of Puerto Rico.  The eastern end of Vieques is world-famous as a major bombing target of the U.S. Navy.  Culebra is an upscale residential island for the rich, but not necessarily famous.  The waters here are pristine and beautiful, and the islanders very laid back.

Vieques claims to be the home of two of the largest bio-luminescent bays  in the world.  Culebra hosts the largest natural lagoon within protective reefs that we have seen in the islands.  Unfortunately neither island has the commercial infrastructure to attract us for more than a visit. 

After a romp back through the BVI with Chris’s cousin Gary and his wife Rosemarie during last two weeks of February, we sailed to St. Croix. 

Nobody in St. Thomas or St. Johns ever said anything positive about St. Croix.  Both of us were pleasantly surprised to discover a quiet, off the beaten path, bustling island with a still evident Danish heritage.  The island has an active art and yachting community,  park reserves for hiking and an offshore marine preserve, Buck Island.

The only negative is that there are only a few protected anchorages, the best being Christiansted, but it is still worth a look in the future. What St Croix lacks in anchorages, it makes up in natural beauty.

 

March:  St. Martin

Heading south again, March  found us back in St. Martin, as charter boat again, this time to host the Boorsteins for a second time.  Yes, we were chartering one last time.  Allen Boorstein called Chris to schedule the boat and when he heard that we had stopped chartering, Allen simply said, “OK, so when can we come?”  They are great folks and we couldn't refuse.

Unfortunately strong winds arrived at the same time as the Boorsteins, and we were restricted to sailing between Anguilla and the western shore of St. Martin for most of their time aboard.

 

April:  Margarita, Venezuela

At the end of March, Jackie jumped ship and returned to the States to continue her writing effort to describe the American economy in layman's terms.  Two former crew members arrived to join Chris for a quick sail to Margarita Island in Venezuela to obtain diesel fuel for our monster 1,100 gallon tank at 40 cents per gallon.  There are two ways to obtain fuel in Margarita, one at an old concrete fishing pier and the other by plastic drum and  fuel boat.  "Diesel Man" simply tied itself to our starboard side and began to hand pump 2,500 liters (1,000 gallons) into SHIBUMI.

Afterwards Chris sailed SHIBUMI north to St. Lucia where he left the boat in Rodney Bay, St Lucia,  to meet Jackie for the month of May in the States and to attend his father's 87th birthday and his 30th Medical School Reunion in Philadelphia.

June:  St. Vincent and Granada

By Mid-June we were both back aboard SHIBUMI sailing her south from St Lucia seeking safe harbor for the unknown 2006 hurricane season.  Basically our our only real choices were Trinidad and Venezuela.  We chose Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, after learning of the hot and humid weather in Trinidad. 

And so we began our 18 day journey from Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, to Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, via Bequia (pictured on the left), Canouan, the Tobago Cays, Carricou, both St. George harbor,  Prickley Bay in Granada, and Los Testigos..

 

June:  Los Testigos and Isla Margarita, Venezuela

After learning many new versions of Mexican Train Dominos from the Trinidad cruisers in Rodney Bay, we woke up early one morning for the 90 mile sail to Los Testigos, the Witnesses, which are several islands almost half way between Granada and Isla Margarita. 

We were free to explore after checking in with the local coast guard group who blessed SHIBUMI for a three day stay.  Pristine beaches, turtle tracks, driftwood, native beach restaurants, cactus farms and very, very isolated.  A great place to rest before returning to civilization, ala Isla Margarita which is a free port.  Once again SHIBUMI took on diesel at the very modest local prices. Never miss an opportunity.

July:  Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela

July 3rd found us in Bahia Redonda Marina just in time for the July 4th party at their dinghy bar restaurant, El Ancha.  The next day, July 5th, was Venezuela’s Independence Day so a good time continued on ... and on ... and on.  These people really party!

Bahia Redonda is the premier marina in the Puerto La Cruz area.  Good security, fine people, cats to monitor the mice population, dogs to monitor the cat population, guards with guns at all gates to monitor the human population, an active cruiser community, safe water, electricity, cable, and, most of the time, wireless internet.

Once SHIBUMI was safely hauled out of the water and secure on land, we flew to North Carolina via Caracas.

August-October:  Chapel Hill, North Carolina

Our time at home in North Carolina allowed us to reflect on the joys of living two different life styles.  The ease of living in a house, compared with a boat.  The “joy “of yard, rather than engine, work.  The fun of meeting friends for lunches and our neighbors for the annual neighborhood potluck instead of cruiser BBQs and sundowner sessions.  The need to exercise daily on a 2 mile walk with the neighborhood walkers instead of snorkeling and swimming off the boat. 

And, of course, lunches with the ladies.  Seated left to right, Joyce (Todd) Gad, Brenda Atwood, Jackie Lambertsen, and Jean Scovil.  The charter members of Management Style forge onward with new lifestyles and challenges!

November:  Thanksgiving

This was a Thanksgiving to remember. A good year was beginning to wrap up and we were lucky to be able to spend some time with Chris's daughter, Emily, Gary and Rosemarie and their children.

Thanks for a great Sneads Ferry Thanksgiving!  Seated left to right:  Jackie Lambertsen, Emily Davis, Rosemarie and Gary Lambertsen, their daughter Jackie, her friend Billy Hudgins, Jim's friend Heather Owen, and their son, Jim Lambertsen.

Life was as it should be: the house work was done and the weather was beginning to turn cold.  Juices pulling us south for the winter began to flow, snowbirds that we have become.

December:  Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela

Once we arrived in South America, we realized how little we knew about this Spanish-and-Portugese-speaking continent south of Mexico.  As little as we know about Asia, we know less about South America.  And so we our adventures here begin.

Venezuela is breath-taking beautiful, the locals are friendly and helpful, the food is tropical and nourishing, and prices are less than in the U.S.  Diesel is outrageously reasonable.  But in the past five years, their "rule of law" justice system has splintered and the result is that few folks feel safe walking the streets or riding the bus. And we mean locals, not only foreigners.  

An example of the confusion facing the locals is the exchange rate for U.S. dollars.  According to the owner of the marina mini-market, five years ago the exchange rate was 4 bolivares to 1 U.S. Dollar.  When we arrived in July, the official exchange rate was 2,150 bolivares to one USD. Unofficially the exchange rate was 2,450 "b's." In December, 2006, the rate was 3,000 "b's."

With inflation reported by the government as 16% annually, employers and employees face daily challenges and uncertainty is in the air.

As in Horta in the Azores, cruisers are encouraged to document their visit by drawing on one of the walls in the dinghy bar.  So the next time you are enjoying a beer at La Ancha, look for our logo as you pass the left side of the bar.

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