201:  Maine Circuit
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In the summer of 2001, SHIBUMI wandered through the islands between Portland and Mount Desert Island, Maine.  She absorbed the culture of the hard-working, honest people that populate the coast:  lobstermen, shop-keepers, restaurateurs, museum volunteers, steel-band musicians, and, of course, sailors.  And her crew learned how to vocalize the local word of many meanings:  "ay-yup."

Life at sea at 44º north latitude and 68º west longitude is different from the Caribbean:  wide tide ranges, occasional fog as the temperature of the water and air clash, multitudes of lobster pots clogging normal water channels, really "cool" water, and what we call "dark light" which is the result of clear cool air producing the deep colors that photographers crave.  The whites are whiter and the brights are brighter than anywhere else we have traveled.  At least until the fog arrives.

The following route is a sample of places to go and things to do that we enjoyed the summer of 2001.  The distances are short; none exceed 30 nautical miles in one day. 

Day One:  Southwest Harbor to Center Harbor

Mount Desert Island can be reached by flying into Boston, MA, or Bangor, ME, and hiring a taxi to one of the many villages on the island.  Each village is equipped to welcome the droves of tourists which attend the many festivals and hike the designated trails around the island.

Southwest Harbor on Mt. Desert Island is the home of Hinkley Yachts, a historic reason to visit by itself.  The village caters to the up-scale market of vacationers from the mainland with good choices of restaurants and shops.

Load your belongings on SHIBUMI so that we can hoist the anchor and travel west to the entrance of Eggemoggin Reach to anchor outside Center Harbor, the home of Wooden Boats.

Day Two:  Center Harbor to Castine

Spend the morning ashore at Wooden Boats surveying their unique operation.  Then back aboard to sail through the northwest run of Eggemoggin Reach as we head for Castine.

We may stop at Bucks Harbor if Flame, the local steel band with a heritage of generations of local musicians, orchestrate their elaborate evening performance.

Otherwise, enjoy your time wandering through the streets of Castine.  Visit the seaman's college in the heart of the village.  

Day 3:  Castine to Camden via Searsport

After a quick breakfast aboard, sail with us to Searsport where you can visit their famous seamen's museum.  Learn about the history of the yachts and seamen from Maine, a rich tradition which continues to this day.  Be sure to view the film documenting the day to day life as one of  Maine's tall ships sails around Cape Horn in a series of gales.

After lunch, meander with us south through the inlets around Isleboro Island on our way to the major commercial center of Camden.  Here you will find up-scale shops, restaurants, and bakeries.  This is quintessential Maine.

 

Day 4:  Camden to North Haven

East of Camden you will find some of the most exquisite scenery on the out-islands of Maine.  After a leisurely sail through the Fox Islands Thoroughfare, we anchor in either Perry Creek or Broom Island across from North Haven.

Ashore in the village of North Haven, you will discover an artist community and "down-home" seafood restaurants which display local catches.  North Haven is also the home of marble quarries which have outfitted many monuments and buildings in Washington DC and New York City.

And the harbor in North Haven is one of the best stops to purchase fresh lobsters from the floating lobster bins on the quay ... for immediate consumption!

Day 5:  North Haven to Hay Island, Vinalhaven

Since we have visited many towns and villages during our excursion, we raise the anchor and move east to an isolated, rugged, wild cove where few venture.  Here we lower the dinghy, grab our buckets and nets to search out the mud flats containing tonight's dinner:  fresh mussels.  We will ask you to remain on board the dinghy since you will be sucked into the muck if you put a foot overboard!

While here, we will also travel by dinghy up Winter Harbor River to Vinal Cove where quarrying and logging operations previously farmed the timber and granite resources of the area.  This very special anchorage must be accessed by dinghy during high tide!

Day 6:  Hay Island to Frenchboro, Long Island

After sailing out of Winter Harbor, we move east to the small village of Frenchboro to join a local church social to help  fund maintenance.  As the local population swells from 50 to 500, local folks from many other islands appear to purchase a plate of lobster, vegetables, and homemade desserts.

Use the walking tour of the island to minimize the effects of a big lunch!   Bring good shoes, though.  Captain Chris hiked the trails in boat shoes, and regretted it later.

Note the harbor conditions during low tide:  boats settle on the bottom of the harbor as the water sweeps outbound. 

Day 7:  Frenchboro, Long Island,  to Somersville,  Mount Desert Island

After we return to SHIBUMI, we head north around Cranberry Island and Northeast Harbor to one of the largest fjords in New England.   We anchor at the northeastern tip of the fjord to land ashore in the dinghy at Somersville to spend your last hours together enjoying the pristine beauty of Maine's majestic granite and fir portraits.

A local taxi provides transportation back to your scheduled flight.  During our week together, we have sought and discovered the essence of Maine:  good people, good food, good anchorages, and, most importantly, good memories!

 

The Maine culture that you will experience on this route:

Rustic, natural, untamed beauty

"Smoke over the water" as the fog seeps in

A traditional Windjammer underway

Windjammer cruisers braving the brisk water!

Daily tides of 15+ feet

Natural sculptures on Vinalhaven

Long, scenic dinghy rides up wilderness channels

Fresh lobster straight from today's catch!

Fresh mussels straight from the mud flats!

The local Buck Harbor steel band, if playing

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