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SHIBUMI Returns to the San Blas Islands in January, 2008
The airport at Porvenir, western-most Port of Entry for the San Blas Islands. That's all of it behind the boats.
	The San Blas islands, part of the Kuna Yala, are the home of the Kuna Indian Nation. The Kunas are very protective of their culture but allow visitors if you follow their rules as defined below. The Kunas live in a matriarchal communal society, or at least that’s what they say. I have no idea why the highest three members of the Congresso, the ruling authority for each island, are men. Anyway the men tend coconut trees on the 200 or so uninhabited islands here in order to sell individual coconuts to Colombian traders for 10 cents/each. The women are the business aspect of each household. Children are canoed between islands to attend school. Some living in outlying islands spend the week away from home to be educated.
Each island or island group has a leader and governs itself under a set of national guidelines. Kunas usually cannot visit other islands without written permission and paying a fee. Kunas start their day before dawn and sleep at nightfall as they have no electricity. Kunas are not allowed to leave the country or marry an outsider on pain of expulsion from their nation. Intermarriage is common and creates some interesting genetic abnormalities and an increased incidence of albinism. Albinos seem to be accepted and not cast out as in some cultures but have the real problem of "UV scorch" in the Panamanian sun. Homosexuality and trans-dressing are another accepted result of their isolationist life-style.
	The Kunas are a small framed people with gentle, if persistent, personalities. They live in small family groups in thatched huts on the islands with no running water, plumbing or electricity. They travel between islands and to the mainland in dugout canoes called “ulas.” The men's lives of fishing and coconut harvesting revolves around natures cycles, as it has for centuries. The women have evolved into creating and selling Molas and bracelets to cruisers and tourists from their ulas or in the markets at Porvneir, Panama City, or Colon. On the islands, dinner for the family group occurs before the sun sets. Visitors are generally welcome to visit any island during the day, but are expected to leave before dark. And don't touch the coconuts! The land belongs to the Kuna Nation, but the coconuts belong to the family groups which tend and harvest the grove for ten cents per coconut.
The women sew reverse appliqué patches about 16 inches by 12 inches which they wear as front and back panels of their blouses. These patches are called “molas” and cost anywhere from $10 to $100 dollars each. We have secured about 70, all are unique and beautiful; several we consider high art. The handwork is exquisite, each with a theme or telling a story. Styles range from traditional symbolic patterns, to depictions of medicinal plants to picture images of every day Kuna life. An offshoot of this art form is the "tourist mola". A two layer simplified version in bright blues and greens with tropical colors to sell very cheaply to the ballooning tourist trade at the entry islands.
	The natural beauty of the archipelago is incredible.
Disregard for the following rules of the National Kuna Congresso may cause permanent expulsion from the San Blas islands. 1. On arrival in Porvenir, pay Kuna cruising tax of $8.00 for 3 months. 2. No chartering or money making operations without permit from Kuna Congresso. 3. No boat maintenance on any island which would disturb the environment. This includes sanding and varnishing on the boat. 4. No destruction of resources which includes all forms of fishing except line fishing from the boat. No spear fishing. 5. No water sports not typical of Kuna culture which includes jet skiing, water skiing, wind surfing, kite surfing, etc. 6. Respect the Kuna culture and sacred sites and ceremonies. No photos or videos of ceremonies without written permission. 7. No illegal drugs 8. No nudism or inappropriate clothing including bikinis, topless, and nudity 9. No firearms or hunting weapons on islands. 10. No scuba diving but snorkeling is OK. 11. Don’t throw money and coins from big ships to Kuna boats. 12. No burning trash ashore. Must ask Kunas for permission to dispose of trash. 13. Do not take any food items to Kuna islands which can be purchased locally.
For all their efforts, we believe that the Kuna Nation will soon be absorbed into the modern age. One indication is the frequent request we receive in far outlying islands to charge their cell phones oernight. They have no electricity, but their cell phone is one of their most prized possessions. Another indication is the women's persistence in selling their molas. Chris told the women pictured with him in the ula above to return the next day when they descended on us at 6 pm when we first anchored at Porvenir. At 6:30 am they were knocking on our hull ready to display their treasures! Tourism off the beaten track is also becoming very popular. the occasional resorts is beginning to appear at Isla Los Grullos and the Western Lemmons. For a small fee you can sleep in a thatched hut and eat grilled fish and rice on your own paradise island. Make like Robinson Crusoe...
	For our October anniversary, Chris purchased an underwater camera for us in April! It is a real thrill to be able to record some of the wonderful snorkeling dives that we experienced when the frequent rain gave way to sunshine! View more photos in our: San Blas Photo Album San Blas Reef Photo Album San Blas Reef Fish Photo Album