Volume 0308
2003 2004 2005 2006 2007

Costa da Morte

La Coruna, Spain to Muros, Spain

 

2003 Position Avg Speed Distance Avg Course Wind Weather
Thursday,
Aug 14
42°45.49 N  08°56.80 W 4.5 knots 5 nm 120° Calm Cloudy

Our pilot book tells us that Portosin is the best marina and harbor in the area so we cross the ria under motor at noon to discover new management at the Club Nautico, unfriendly to boaters who anchor outside the marina.  We shrug our shoulders and attempt to find another place to dock the dinghy during our all-day run to Santiago the next day to greet our good friend Mark Bumgarner who arrives for a week's vacation.  High tides, low water, generally dirty harbor.  So we return to the club and Chris negotiates a "dinghy dock" fee to allow us to access the town through the marina.

Wednesday
Aug 13
42°47.00 N 09°02.60W 7.75 knots 185 nm 80° N 10 Clear

Since we enjoyed our evening ashore the prior night, Chris decides to extend our stay at Finisterre.  After we dinghy to the beach to install the spare prop on the outboard engine, Chris motors ashore to climb to the Finisterre lighthouse while Jackie relaxes on the boat.  After a dockside lunch of sardines and our daily 90 minute siesta, we lift anchor and motor to Muros.  As we approach the harbor, we decide to anchor in a cove to the east of the village to avoid the noise of the city and the traffic of the commercial fishermen.  What a delight Muros is!

Tuesday
Aug 12
42°54.68 N 09°57.69W 7.5 knots 24 nm 78° Calm Clear

At 1045 we depart Camarillas and decide to investigate the port of Mugia on the way to Finisterre.  No pontoons to land a dinghy, no Club Nautico, but a lovely little town.  Possibly a day trip.  The temperature falls to below 70 as we motor on a windless day south to Finisterre.  We anchor in the afternoon and dinghy ashore at 1800 after a short siesta!   Finisterre exceeds expectations!  While touring the town, Chris's front trouser becomes the accurate target for a group of seagulls practicing shit deposits.  After he cleans up, we eat at Casa Velay, discover that the dinghy is submerged in mud at low tide, and run over some submerged object in the water as we return to SHIBUMI at 2300.

Sunday
Aug 10
43°07.71 N 09°10.70 W 7.5 knots 16 nm 73° NE 15 Cloudy

Our piloting book informs us that the Club Natuico at Camarinas provides excellent service, including dinghy dock, rachiones, bar, sailing club, etc.  We agree.  After a day of sailing in the fog, we anchor in the harbor and land to walk the town.  After visiting the Tourist Office on the dock, we circle the town looking for restaurants and internet cafes.  We connect with Riitta and Jochen from Sea Princess Monday evening to complete our tour of the town.  The wind blows constantly;  of course, we are in port!  We have a fine meal at the only restaurant ashore only to return to discover better food at the marina cafe!

Friday
Aug 8
43°13.40 N 09°00.17W 7.0 knots 3 nm 98° Calm Foggy

Friday morning we decide to cross the Ria to Laxe.  What a pleasant surprise!  A small landing dock for visiting yachts run by the Real Club Nautico Laxe, a garbage can, many choices of fine restaurants, a Friday street market, several supermarkets, the best beach so far, real sand dunes, and friendly folks.  We decide to stay awhile as we eat lunch at O' Salvavidas Cafe on the boardwalk.  Fog returns Saturday morning so Chris decides to rebuild the aft head while Jackie updates the web site.  On our return to shore, we lunch at the Plaza restaurant, our best meal so far!  No luck uploading the web site.  Local dancers in native costumes provide our evening entertainment.

Thursday   Aug 7 43°15.65 N 08°57.69W 7.0 knots 42 nm 267° Calm Foggy

At 1100 we depart Sada as the fog lifts over the harbor and head due west for Malpico, a fishing village with a reputation for entertaining tourists. Unfortunately the fog returns and encompasses the boat.  Visibility is 100 feet maximum.  So we continue on to Corme, another fishing village with a safer harbor.  Since Corme has no small boat landing area, it was a challenge to get ashore.  Once ashore we eat at one of their two restaurants, Miramar, to enjoy our first experience with caldeirada or fisherman stew.  With the harbor full of fishing equipment, Corme is not "yacht-friendly".

 Sunday
Aug 3
43°21.64 N 08°43.80W 7.0 knots 22 nm 98° Calm Clear

On Sunday we leave Coruna for Sada for boat maintenance.  Chris needs the mizzen sail repaired, new slides for both the main and the mizzen, and other small items.  Sada is a great little harbor housing 900+ small boats of less than 15 meters.  Every evening at 2130, the locals run back to harbor to secure their boats before dark!   We take the bus to Coruna on Wednesday to retrieve an instruction book in English on our new cell phone to no avail!  Unfortunately the soot from Coruna follows us to Sada and we continue to wash SHIBUMI down regularly.  We replenish our diesel and water at the floating docks with a gracious dock crew.  Champion Supermarket's parking lot backs up to the marina!

 

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