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Gibraltar to Graciosa
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2004 |
Position |
Avg Speed |
Distance |
Avg Course |
Wind |
Weather |
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- Thursday
- Nov 4
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39°19.66 N 31°10.07 W |
7.8 knots |
1 nm |
225° |
S 20-25 |
Fog |
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After an easy overnight run, we view the
northern coast of Lanzarote and the island northwest of it, Graciosa, with
the morning light. Both of us are feeling better to be near islands in
the Atlantic Ocean once again. We motor between the mainland and the
island to discover both the anchorage south of the harbor and the
"bare-basic" marina. We are allowed to remain on the main dock,
secured far aft on the floating pier. Little did we realize what a
treasure Graciosa is among the few and far-between anchorages in The Canary
Islands. Remote but hospitable. |
- Wednesday
- Nov 3
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38°09.15 N 34°15.23 W |
7.5 knots |
1 nm |
225° |
S 20-25 |
Clear |
|
 |
Today is the birthday of one of our Irish
friends in Waynesville, NC. So at noon, we toasted Neptune first to avoid any
repercussions from breaking the cardinal rule of no alcohol on passages and
then we toasted Ron Sullivan with a can of Guinness divided between us!
It was good that we did because later Chris caught two, not one but two,
beautiful mahi-mahi which we have filleted and frozen. Although Chris
has promised more, now our freezer is full of fresh, soon to be frozen, fish
for the Atlantic crossing. The
remaining part of the day is uneventful even though we are beginning to see
more targets on the radar as we approach The Canary Islands, so named by the
Spaniards when they discovered dogs native to the archipelago. |
- Tuesday
- Nov 2
|
36°52.90 N 37°41.32 W |
6 knots |
151 nm |
225° |
SW 8 |
Clear |
|
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Today is Election Day in the States and
what a contrast! A large high pressure system has surrounded us:
clear skies, calm seas, no useful wind. On Jackie's first daylight
watch, Chris decided to hoist the mizzen staysail, a large triangular
postage stamp that flies between the two masts. A great sail for light
wind but hard to handle in quick maneurvers. At 1130 she attempted to
radio the tanker aft of us, Jackie called him from the engine room.
Luckily a fellow freighter heard our efforts and identified the tanker as "Jost."
Then he returned our call and deviated to port to miss us. Whew! Green
flash at sunset makes the day a success! |
- Monday
- Nov 1
|
36°14.78 N 41°10.62 W |
6 knots |
148 nm |
225° |
W 10 |
Cloudy |
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The day of changing weather patterns as we
adjust to sleeping and standing watch, 3 hours on and 3 hours off, 24/7.
After the first two days, three hours sleep even feels healthy.
Midnight found us sailing under a three quarter Carolina moon under overcast
skies in 20-25 knots off the port bow. By noon the wind died to 10
knots and we activated the iron sail (engine) to maintain a speed of 6
knots. Overnight Chris discovered that the forward cabin door was jammed
close by three drawers which had fallen open under the rough sea conditions
yesterday. Another trick, not a treat to solve! |
- Sunday
- Oct 31
|
36°30.72 N 44°38.95 W |
6 knots |
158 nm |
225° |
W 18 |
Cloudy |
|
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The first 30 miles or so
were uneventful if you can call crossing the Straits of Gibraltar from north
to south with incoming tides (either the charts are wrong or we read them
backward) while darting across the 12-15 freighters normally inbound and
outbound each hour. Whew! We breathed a sigh of relief when we reached the
southern part of the traffic separation zone for the big boys. Only to
be flagged down and boarded by the Moroccan marine patrol. After
lunch Chris caught two small tunnies
which ended the day right! |
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Watch Schedule: |
0000-0300 |
Chris |
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0300-0600 |
Jackie |
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0600-0900 |
Chris |
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0900-1200 |
Jackie |
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1200-1500 |
Chris |
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1500-1800 |
Jackie |
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1800-2100 |
Chris |
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2100-2400 |
Jackie |
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SHIBUMI
boarded by the Morocco Marines on Halloween!
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After
we crossed the Straits, we headed east about five miles off the northern
coast of Morocco. I was on watch (3 hours on, 3 hours off, 24/7)
when I told Chris that the navy vessel which was passing us on the port
side had changed course and was now chasing us. He took the ship and
waited to see what would happen next.
There was no flag on
the vessel except for a small one the size of a laptop computer flying
from the pilot house. Instead of hailing us on the radio, they waved
to us to stop and then proceeded to lower their dinghy to board us.
We had just finished reading "Dangerous Waters" about illegal boarding by
renegade navy officers in Indonesia so we were looking for some kind of
official looking something that would verify these guys. Never found
it. |
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Three young men
finally came along side in their dinghy and two boarded our vessel. I
decided that the only defense I had was to take pictures so I snapped
away. In the meantime, I radioed another US boat who was also sailing
away from Gib that day to tell them our position and that we were being
boarded. Ed from Horai stood by on VHF 72 and later called Tarifa traffic
control to ascertain if this was normal.The first "official" informed us
that nobody spoke English but they could speak some French.
Chris showed him our
boat documentation and our passports. He had no pencil or pen to
record anything. He had no briefcase, no id, nothing except a torn
uniform. He was wearing sandals. |
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Then
the officer asked Chris to open drawers, compartments. He demanded
that Chris unscrew wall coverings to show him what was behind the boards.
He tried to rip out the insulation around the aft heat pump. Then a second
one walked on board and I followed him around to watch what he did.
When Chris took the second one to "search"
the engine room, the first one took me up forward and asked to see what
was under the salon seat cushions. I showed him food; he
wanted spirits and cigarettes which we have none. Then he went into
the forward cabin and opened all the clothes drawers only to find more
cereal and some sheets. The first one walked out of the forward
cabin, closed the door behind him, and both of them left. He asked
Chris why I took pictures and Chris told him I liked taking pictures. |
We
sighed a sigh of relief, Chris reinstalled all the boards and straightened
up the aft cabin and we motored east out the Straits into the Atlantic. When I woke up this morning, Chris told me
that he could not open the forward cabin door. After a short discussion,
he looked into the cabin from the forward hatch. Three drawers had
partially fallen out of their compartments as I had forgotten to open the
forward cabin and check that all the drawers were locked. I was so
relieved to see them go and it was 1300 so I made lunch instead.
Happy Halloween! Now
we are planning how to reinstall the drawers or open the hatch to get into
the forward cabin. Houdini here we come! Really want to find out the
correct procedures to follow when we are boarded. They were friendly
enough but it was scary. |
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