Volume 0424
2003 2004 2005 2006 2007

 

Gibraltar to Graciosa

 

 

2004 Position Avg Speed Distance Avg Course Wind Weather
Thursday
Nov 4
39°19.66  N 31°10.07 W 7.8 knots 1 nm 225° S 20-25 Fog

After an easy overnight run, we view the northern coast of Lanzarote and the island northwest of it, Graciosa, with the morning light.  Both of us are feeling better to be near islands in the Atlantic Ocean once again.  We motor between the mainland and the island to discover both the anchorage south of the harbor and the "bare-basic" marina.  We are allowed to remain on the main dock, secured far aft on the floating pier.  Little did we realize what a treasure Graciosa is among the few and far-between anchorages in The Canary Islands.  Remote but hospitable. 

Wednesday
Nov 3
38°09.15  N 34°15.23 W 7.5 knots 1 nm 225° S 20-25 Clear

Today is the birthday of one of our Irish friends in Waynesville, NC.  So at noon, we toasted Neptune first to avoid any repercussions from breaking the cardinal rule of no alcohol on passages and then we toasted Ron Sullivan with a can of Guinness divided between us!   It was good that we did because later Chris caught two, not one but two, beautiful mahi-mahi which we have filleted and frozen.  Although Chris has promised more, now our freezer is full of fresh, soon to be frozen, fish for the Atlantic crossing.

The remaining part of the day is uneventful even though we are beginning to see more targets on the radar as we approach The Canary Islands, so named by the Spaniards when they discovered dogs native to the archipelago.    

Tuesday
Nov 2
36°52.90  N 37°41.32 W 6 knots 151 nm 225° SW 8 Clear

Today is Election Day in the States and what a contrast!  A large high pressure system has surrounded us:  clear skies, calm seas, no useful wind.  On Jackie's first daylight watch, Chris decided to hoist the mizzen staysail, a large triangular postage stamp that flies between the two masts.  A great sail for light wind but hard to handle in quick maneurvers.  At 1130 she attempted to radio the tanker aft of us, Jackie called him from the engine room.  Luckily a fellow freighter heard our efforts and identified the tanker as "Jost."  Then he returned our call and deviated to port to miss us. Whew!  Green flash at sunset makes the day a success!

Monday
Nov 1
36°14.78  N 41°10.62 W 6 knots 148 nm 225° W 10 Cloudy

 

The day of changing weather patterns as we adjust to sleeping and standing watch, 3 hours on and 3 hours off, 24/7.  After the first two days, three hours sleep even feels healthy.  Midnight found us sailing under a three quarter Carolina moon under overcast skies in 20-25 knots off the port bow.  By noon the wind died to 10 knots and we activated the iron sail (engine) to maintain a speed of 6 knots. Overnight Chris discovered that the forward cabin door was jammed close by three drawers which had fallen open under the rough sea conditions yesterday.  Another trick, not a treat to solve!

Sunday
Oct 31
36°30.72  N 44°38.95 W 6 knots 158 nm 225° W 18 Cloudy

The first 30 miles or so were uneventful if you can call crossing the Straits of Gibraltar from north to south with incoming tides (either the charts are wrong or we read them backward) while darting across the 12-15 freighters normally inbound and outbound each hour.  Whew!  We breathed a sigh of relief when we reached the southern part of the traffic separation zone for the big boys.  Only to be flagged down and boarded by the Moroccan marine patrol.  After lunch Chris caught two small tunnies which ended the day right!

 

Watch Schedule:

0000-0300 Chris    

 

    0300-0600 Jackie      
    0600-0900 Chris      
    0900-1200 Jackie      
    1200-1500 Chris      
    1500-1800 Jackie      
    1800-2100 Chris      
    2100-2400 Jackie      
             

 

SHIBUMI boarded by the Morocco Marines on Halloween!

After we crossed the Straits, we headed east about five miles off the northern coast of Morocco.  I was on watch (3 hours on, 3 hours off, 24/7) when I told Chris that the navy vessel which was passing us on the port side had changed course and was now chasing us.  He took the ship and waited to see what would happen next. 

There was no flag on the vessel except for a small one the size of a laptop computer flying from the pilot house.  Instead of hailing us on the radio, they waved to us to stop and then proceeded to lower their dinghy to board us.  We had just finished reading "Dangerous Waters" about illegal boarding by renegade navy officers in Indonesia so we were looking for some kind of official looking something that would verify these guys.  Never found it.

Three young men finally came along side in their dinghy and two boarded our vessel.  I decided that the only defense I had was to take pictures so I snapped away.

  In the meantime, I radioed another US boat who was also sailing away from Gib that day to tell them our position and that we were being boarded.  Ed from Horai stood by on VHF 72 and later called Tarifa traffic control to ascertain if this was normal.The first "official" informed us that nobody spoke English but they could speak some French. 

Chris showed him our boat documentation and our passports.  He had no pencil or pen to record anything.  He had no briefcase, no id, nothing except a torn uniform.  He was wearing sandals.

Then the officer asked Chris to open drawers, compartments.  He demanded that Chris unscrew wall coverings to show him what was behind the boards.  He tried to rip out the insulation around the aft heat pump. Then a second one walked on board and I followed him around to watch what he did. 

When Chris took the second one to "search" the engine room, the first one took me up forward and asked to see what was under the salon seat cushions.  I showed him food;  he wanted spirits and cigarettes which we have none.  Then he went into the forward cabin and opened all the clothes drawers only to find more cereal and some sheets.  The first one walked out of the forward cabin, closed the door behind him, and both of them left.  He asked Chris why I took pictures and Chris told him I liked taking pictures.

We sighed a sigh of relief, Chris reinstalled all the boards and straightened up the aft cabin and we motored east out the Straits into the Atlantic. When I woke up this morning, Chris told me that he could not open the forward cabin door.  After a short discussion, he looked into the cabin from the forward hatch.  Three drawers had partially fallen out of their compartments as I had forgotten to open the forward cabin and check that all the drawers were locked.  I was so relieved to see them go and it was 1300 so I made lunch instead.  

Happy Halloween!  Now we are planning how to reinstall the drawers or open the hatch to get into the forward cabin.  Houdini here we come!  Really want to find out the correct procedures to follow when we are boarded.  They were friendly enough but it was scary. 

 

 

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