The Azores
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Introduction

Once you visit the Azores, your definition of "island" changes.  The temperate weather, history since medieval times, majestic volcanoes, cascading waterfalls, millions of hydrangeas, stations of herded cattle, friendly people, geologic formations, all combine to establish the standard to judge other islands of the world. 

We have sailed many times in the Bahamas and Caribbean, and now consider the Azores to have significantly more appeal than any group of islands that we have previously visited.

From sunrise at 0530 to sunset at 2230 (yes, it is still light at 10:00 pm!), we roam the streets of the cities and the back roads of the countryside with no more concern for security than when in Chapel Hill.  The larger cities display tighter security, both in the marinas and on the streets.   The policemen here do carry firearms.

Each island has a unique character and a common complexion.  The archipelago is hydrangea heaven;  when we first stopped in Flores, we commented on the "hundreds of thousands of hydrangea plants".  Now we realize that the number in the island chain is in the millions.  The plant was transplanted from the Orient in the early 1700's for use as hedges and borders because cattle will eat almost anything ... but not hydrangeas! 

Now naturalized, hydrangeas are pruned back aggressively by locals to control the flow of traffic and the definition of their fields.  But the tradition continues:  when you see new road construction, the single stalks of the newly planted hydrangeas mark both sides of the road.  Remember that they only bloom in July and August!

The islands are also a geologist's dreamland.  On Flores, we visited seven lagoons created by multiple volcanic eruptions.  The Rocha dos Bordoes, pictured to the right, is a wonder in itself.

On Faial, we traveled to the westernmost part of the island to discover a newly formed crater.  In 1957 nature extended the  island another five or six miles to the west when a new volcano erupted.  Now a national park, Vulcao dos Capelinhos is available to climb and photograph.  And Chris suggests that it be used when it is time to film the science fiction movie, DUNE.

If we have a negative comment about the Azores, we could do without the small mosquitoes that plague me and others in the marina at night.  Chris seems to be immune to them.  Also the blaring disco music streaming from the marina until the wee hours of the morning left us with more than one sleepless night in both Angra and Ponta Delgada. 

The first time I shopped in the Azores in Flores, I looked at the wine prices and decided that I dared not purchase anything which cost less than 3 euro ($4).  They sold large jugs of wine for 1.50 euro.  Amazingly the medium priced wine, under 4 euro ($5) is very good so our only problem is experiencing the different varieties to learn what we enjoy.  

Local cheese is excellent and cost $4 for up to 2 pounds at the factory and double that for the same cheese in the stores.  On my last grocery trip in the Azores, I purchased a cheese from each of the islands.  After tasting each of them in the next 60 days, I wanted the opportunity to buy more and wished that I had bought one of each on my first, not last, trip.

The multiple types of bread, all excellent, cost $1 for large loaves.  When we placed bread in the freezer, we were able to keep it fresh until we could eat it.  Shop pastries are $1/each to Chris's delight.

On the left, SHIBUMI is pictured nestled in the western part of the Angra Do Heroismo harbor on the Azorean island of Terceira.  We arrived after a beautiful eight hour sail from Vilas das Velas on the island of Sao Jorge.

Each time we leave one island, I inform Chris that nothing could surpass the last.  And to date, I have been wrong each time!  Each island offers us  a unique contribution to the Azores and our venture.  Sao Jorge was hydrangeas, fajas, and cheese production at its finest.  After visiting the supermarket and discovering that the cheese there was twice the price as at the factory, I am sorry that I did not buy a whole round!

Chris, Emily, and I are doing well with the exception that all of us have enjoyed the food more that our exercise level can absorb.  Each one of us proclaims daily that we must forego the excellent cheese, homemade bread, and local wine.  And we try, we try.

 

The People of the Azores

All of us on board would be remiss if we did not acknowledge the friendliness and cooperation of the many contacts from the Azores.  Our expression now for the lavish kindness we receive daily is "Only in the Azores ..."

On Sao Miguel, we wandered into the hills one afternoon seeking the local jam factory.  By the time we found it, the proprietor was closing shop.  But she took time to stop, show us the compote manufacturing process, and then determined that we could not leave without samples of her fig and blackberry jam.  No charge, yum.

When we returned to Faial, I mentioned to a one of the bartenders at Peter's Cafe that we missed taking pictures at the 1957 volcanic eruption on the western side of the island when the batteries to our camera died.  Delcio Silva, pictured on the right atop the lighthouse aside the volcano, insisted on driving us back the next day so that we would have our photos.  This young man will be a great success in life.  He exemplifies the consideration of the people of the Azores.

Next, we traveled to Sao Jorge.  When we arrived, a local fisherman removed his dinghy from his mooring to offer us one of the best anchorages in the harbor. 

Breaking our custom, we decided to hire a driver instead of a rental car.  What a great decision.  Not only did Joseph Rodriguez (966-780-073) know who to request to open the Church of Santa Barbara on a Saturday but he insisted on dropping by his garage to show Chris the lures he uses to catch "the big ones"  when Chris asked him what lures the fishermen used on the island.

We wanted to visit a cheese factory but another cruising couple told us it had been closed the day before.  No problem for Joe;  he even conducted the tour! 

Finally, on Terceira, the Cultural Center offers free Internet access.  Filipe Alexandre who coordinates the operation sat beside me until I had my laptop linked with a  DSL connection to load this website and watch the weather.  And would not consider compensation!

 

 
 

On our arrival in the Azores in Flores, we were adopted by the staff of the Lages Pousada, the hostel or guesthouse run by the town government.  Not only did they feed us well, they made every attempt to educate us on their regional dishes.  Tony greeted us and poured our wine. 

Fatima, the chef, personally served every dish after visiting with us before the meal to assure that we approved both her menu and style of cooking.  And Monica watched over us like babes so that nothing ever went amiss.  Some of the best food since we arrived as picture in the photo gallery on the right.

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Island Summaries:

Flores

Waterfalls, hydrangeas, and hiking trails.   The western most tip of Europe.  Primitive nature gone wild and still looking as groomed as Disneyland.   The only published book about Flores that we found was "The Walking Trails of Flores".  Be aware that the trails are almost vertical due to the topography of the island.

Faial

The yachting center of the Azores and a geologist's dreamland.  More hydrangeas.

Sao Miguel

Tea plantations, live volcano ovens, a jam factory, and a double lake crater.  More hydrangeas.

Sao Jorge

Dairy products and natural beauty.  The best presentation of hydrangeas yet.

Terceira

The ancient gateway between the Americas, both North and South, Asia, and Europe.  Angra do Heroismo, the major port, designated a World Heritage Site.  US Air Force Base on northeast coast by International Airport.

 

Tourist Information:

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Azores Live Nature - Tourist Guide:    email:  classicalda@netc.pt
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Maps and essential Tourist Guides (1-4 euro each):    http://www.drtacores.pt
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destinazores tourist guide which includes hiking trail information:   http://www.destinazores.com/gta/en/Default.asp
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Rural Tourism:  offers the visitor personalized services, family hospitality and more direct contact with the local population, its culture, and customs.
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    TH:  Manor House Tourism:  mansions, manor houses or places of recognized architectural importance and beauty
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    TR:  Rural Tourism:  Rustic building blending in with their rural surroundings
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    AT:  Agro Tourism:  Houses and outbuildings on a farm characterized by the tourists being able to take part in the workings of the farm
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    TA:  Village Tourism:  Developments of a minimum of five houses situated in historic villages  www.quintadocanavial.com
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    CC:  Country Houses:  Private houses or lodging with architectural interest  www.azoreshigh.com
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Camping  www.geocities.com/parquecampismocalheta
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Terceira:  www.terceira.com
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Learn Portuguese at Summer School:  2-5 week courses from June 23rd until July 27th on Sao Miguel at the University of the Acores, Rua da Mae de Deus, 9500 Ponta Delgada;  phone 00351-296-650-000;  cursoverao@alf.uac.pt or visit www.uac.ptcursos/cursoverao
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Some believe the islands to be the remains of the legendary Atlantis:  www.returntoatlantis.com
 

2003 Summer Festivals:

Velas Cultural Week Velas, Sao Jorge July 1-6
Emigrant's Festival Lajes, Flores July 18-21
Madalena Festival Madalena, Pico July 18-22
July Festival Calheta, Sao Jorge July 24-27
Whaler's Week Lajes, Pico August 24-31
Cais Agosto Sao Roque, Pico July 31-August 1
Sea Week Horta, Faial August 3-10
Varadouro Festival Varadouro, Faial September 4-7

 

Useful Portuguese Phrases

Bom diem Good day
La counta, par favor The check, please

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