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Introduction
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Once you visit the Azores, your definition of "island"
changes. The temperate weather, history since medieval times, majestic volcanoes, cascading
waterfalls, millions of hydrangeas, stations of herded cattle, friendly
people, geologic formations, all combine to establish the standard to judge
other islands of the world.
We have sailed many times in the Bahamas and Caribbean,
and now consider the Azores to have significantly more appeal than any group
of islands that we have previously visited. From sunrise at
0530 to sunset at 2230 (yes, it is still light at 10:00 pm!), we roam the
streets of the cities and the back roads of the countryside with no more
concern for security than when in Chapel Hill. The larger cities
display tighter security, both in the marinas and on the streets.
The policemen here do carry firearms. |
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Each island has a unique character and a common
complexion. The archipelago is hydrangea heaven; when we first
stopped in Flores, we commented on the "hundreds of thousands of hydrangea
plants". Now we realize that the number in the island chain is in the
millions. The plant was transplanted from the Orient in the early
1700's for use as hedges and borders because cattle will eat almost anything
... but not hydrangeas!
Now naturalized, hydrangeas are pruned back aggressively
by locals to control the flow of traffic and the definition of their fields.
But the tradition continues: when you see new road construction, the
single stalks of the newly planted hydrangeas mark both sides of the road.
Remember that they only bloom in July and August! |
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The islands are also a geologist's dreamland. On
Flores, we visited seven lagoons created by multiple volcanic eruptions.
The Rocha dos Bordoes, pictured to the right, is a wonder in itself.
On Faial, we traveled to the westernmost part of the
island to discover a newly formed crater. In 1957 nature extended the
island another five or six miles to the west when a new volcano erupted.
Now a national park, Vulcao dos Capelinhos is available to climb and
photograph. And Chris suggests that it be used when it is time to film
the science fiction movie, DUNE. If we have a negative
comment about the Azores, we could do without the small mosquitoes that
plague me and others in the marina at night. Chris seems to be immune
to them. Also the blaring disco music streaming from the marina until
the wee hours of the morning left us with more than one sleepless night in
both Angra and Ponta Delgada. |
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The first time I shopped in the Azores
in Flores, I looked at the wine prices and decided that I dared not purchase
anything which cost less than 3 euro ($4). They sold large jugs of wine for
1.50 euro. Amazingly the medium priced wine, under 4 euro ($5) is very good
so our only problem is experiencing the different varieties to learn what we
enjoy.
Local cheese is excellent and cost $4
for up to 2 pounds at the factory and double that for the same cheese in the
stores. On my last grocery trip in the Azores, I purchased a cheese
from each of the islands. After tasting each of them in the next 60
days, I wanted the opportunity to buy more and wished that I had bought one
of each on my first, not last, trip.
The multiple types of bread, all
excellent, cost $1 for large loaves. When we placed bread in the
freezer, we were able to keep it fresh until we could eat it. Shop
pastries are $1/each to Chris's delight.
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On the left, SHIBUMI is pictured nestled in the western part
of the Angra Do Heroismo harbor on the Azorean island of Terceira. We
arrived after a beautiful eight hour sail from Vilas das Velas
on the island of Sao Jorge.
Each time we leave one island, I inform Chris
that nothing could surpass the last. And to date, I have been wrong each
time! Each island offers us a unique contribution to the Azores and our venture.
Sao Jorge was hydrangeas, fajas, and cheese production at its finest.
After visiting the supermarket and discovering that the cheese there was
twice the price as at the factory, I am sorry that I did not buy a whole
round!
Chris, Emily, and I are doing well with the
exception that all of us have enjoyed the food more that our exercise level
can absorb. Each one of us proclaims daily that we must forego the
excellent cheese, homemade bread, and local wine. And we try, we try. |
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The People of the Azores
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All of us on board would be remiss if we
did not acknowledge the friendliness and cooperation of the many contacts
from the Azores. Our expression now for the lavish kindness we receive
daily is "Only in the Azores ..."
On Sao Miguel, we wandered into the hills
one afternoon seeking the local jam factory. By the time we found it,
the proprietor was closing shop. But she took time to stop, show us
the compote manufacturing process, and then determined that we could not
leave without samples of her fig and blackberry jam. No charge, yum.
When we returned to Faial, I mentioned to a one of the
bartenders at Peter's Cafe that we missed taking pictures at the 1957
volcanic eruption on the western side of the island when the batteries to
our camera died. Delcio Silva, pictured on the right atop the
lighthouse aside the volcano, insisted on driving us back the next day so
that we would have our photos. This young man will be a great success
in life. He exemplifies the consideration of the people of the Azores. |
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Next, we traveled to Sao Jorge. When
we arrived, a local fisherman removed his dinghy from his mooring to offer
us one of the best anchorages in the harbor.
Breaking our custom, we decided to hire a
driver instead of a rental car. What a great decision. Not only
did Joseph Rodriguez (966-780-073) know who to request to open the Church of Santa Barbara
on a Saturday but he insisted on dropping by his garage to show Chris the
lures he uses to catch "the big ones" when Chris asked him what lures
the fishermen used on the island.
We wanted to visit a cheese factory but
another cruising couple told us it had been closed the day before. No
problem for Joe; he even conducted the tour!
Finally, on Terceira, the Cultural Center
offers free Internet access. Filipe Alexandre who coordinates the
operation sat beside me until I had my laptop linked with a DSL
connection to load this website and watch the weather. And would not
consider compensation!
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On our arrival in the Azores in Flores, we were adopted by the staff of
the Lages Pousada, the hostel or guesthouse run by the town government.
Not only did they feed us well, they made every attempt to educate us on
their regional dishes. Tony greeted us and poured our wine.
Fatima, the chef, personally served every dish after
visiting with us before the meal to assure that we approved both her menu
and style of cooking. And Monica watched over us like babes so that
nothing ever went amiss. Some of the best food since we arrived as
picture in the photo gallery on the right. |
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Island Summaries:
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Flores Waterfalls,
hydrangeas, and hiking trails. The western most tip of Europe.
Primitive nature gone wild and still looking as groomed as Disneyland.
The only published book about Flores that we found was "The Walking Trails
of Flores". Be aware that the trails are almost vertical due to
the topography of the island. |
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Faial The yachting center
of the Azores and a geologist's dreamland. More hydrangeas. |
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Sao Miguel Tea
plantations, live volcano ovens, a jam factory, and a double lake crater.
More hydrangeas. |
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Sao Jorge Dairy products and
natural beauty. The best presentation of hydrangeas yet. |
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Terceira The ancient gateway
between the Americas, both North and South, Asia, and Europe. Angra do
Heroismo, the major port, designated a World Heritage Site. US Air
Force Base on northeast coast by International Airport. |
Tourist Information:
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Azores Live Nature - Tourist Guide:
email: classicalda@netc.pt
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Maps and essential Tourist Guides (1-4 euro
each): http://www.drtacores.pt
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destinazores tourist guide which includes hiking trail information:
http://www.destinazores.com/gta/en/Default.asp
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Rural Tourism: offers the
visitor personalized services, family hospitality and more direct contact with
the local population, its culture, and customs.
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TH: Manor
House Tourism: mansions, manor houses or places of recognized
architectural importance and beauty
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TR: Rural
Tourism: Rustic building blending in with their rural surroundings
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AT: Agro
Tourism: Houses and outbuildings on a farm characterized by the tourists
being able to take part in the workings of the farm
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TA: Village
Tourism: Developments of a minimum of five houses situated in historic
villages www.quintadocanavial.com
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CC: Country
Houses: Private houses or lodging with architectural interest
www.azoreshigh.com
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Camping
www.geocities.com/parquecampismocalheta
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Terceira:
www.terceira.com
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Learn Portuguese at Summer School:
2-5 week courses from June 23rd until July 27th on Sao Miguel at the
University of the Acores, Rua da Mae de Deus, 9500 Ponta Delgada; phone
00351-296-650-000;
cursoverao@alf.uac.pt or visit
www.uac.ptcursos/cursoverao
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Some believe the islands to be the
remains of the legendary Atlantis:
www.returntoatlantis.com
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2003 Summer Festivals:
| Velas Cultural Week |
Velas, Sao Jorge |
July 1-6 |
| Emigrant's Festival |
Lajes, Flores |
July 18-21 |
| Madalena Festival |
Madalena, Pico |
July 18-22 |
| July Festival |
Calheta, Sao Jorge |
July 24-27 |
| Whaler's Week |
Lajes, Pico |
August 24-31 |
| Cais Agosto |
Sao Roque, Pico |
July 31-August 1 |
| Sea Week |
Horta, Faial |
August 3-10 |
| Varadouro Festival |
Varadouro, Faial |
September 4-7 |
Useful Portuguese Phrases
| Bom diem |
Good day |
| La counta, par favor |
The check, please |
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