Menorca is the second largest island of The Baleares with 130 miles of coastline, boasting more beaches than all the other islands combined.  The population of 70,000 basically live in two towns:  Ciutadella on the west coast and Mahon or Mao on the east coast.  Menorca counted 8,000 tourists in 1960, 200,000 in 1980, and 1,100,000 in 2000 when 58% were from England, 16% from Germany, and 16% from Spain.  Whole towns spoke English here, especially Puerto Fornells.  And 98% arrive and depart from April to October.  It's vacation wonderland for the tourists but the island has lost its essence..

The western and southern coasts of Menorca resemble a think, flat pancake that floats on the sea.  These thirty feet high cliffs smoothly round the island affording few protected anchorages from southerly winds.

Menorca boasts the top two natural harbors in the Med:  Mahon, a two mile estuary on the southeast coast completely safe from winds and swells in all directions, and Cala Fornells, a large estuary on the northern side of the island where British fleets used to lie protected.

Cliffs sweep the northern coast of Menorca, dropping hundreds of feet to the sea.  Bays cut from the harsh winter weather patterns offer good summer anchorages as the harsh winter northerly winds abate.  Cala Morell, pictured right, exemplifies the rugged coast and natural beauty of the northern shoreline. 

Prehistoric caves overlooking the natural harbor of Cala Morell illustrate the lifestyle of the late Bronze and Iron age inhabitants.  Here Jackie is slipping through one of the many portals dug between a myriad of ancient caves.

Unfortunately Menorca has lost much of its cultural charm.   Even the Mahon tourist office reflected that most of the normal industries such as  cheese and leather goods had demurred to tourism, the island's mainstay.  During the explosive summer months of July and August, Spanish fiestas and other cultural events are staged solely for the tourists and greatly differ from the joyous celebrations we encountered last summer in Galicia.

Mallorca is the largest of the Islas Baleares with a population of 615,000, half of which reside in its capital city, Palma, known around the world as the  yachting center of the Mediterranean.  Many ex-patriot Germans and British reside in small towns all over the island.  In fact, Mallorca is overridden by tourists.

The northwest quarter coast is rough, rugged and exciting with small calas or inlets against jagged cliffs.  The eastern part of  the island slopes down from the mountains to sandy beaches.

The summer weather is clear, sunny, and dry.  When a hot wind precedes a  rain, red dust from the Sahara usually coats everything.  The result reminds one of the residue after snow melts:  dingy, dirty, dreary.

Invaders through the centuries have left their genetic imprint on the population.  However, during the boom in tourism in Mallorca,  many historical artifacts have been looted or paved over in the name of  "progress."  After the richness of the Andalucian museums, we were disappointed to discover the lack of archeological ruins in Mallorca.

The cosmopolitan city of Palma snuggles deep in the northern bay on the southwest coast of the island.  Here rest the yachts of the rich and famous.  We didn't search long before discovering one yacht complete with a helicopter.  Megayachts like the one pictured, enormous sailboats and even "J" boats are commonplace.

Palma harbor is a large, secure body of water which supports large cruise liners, ferries, freighters, multiple marinas, and several large boatyards.  Most of the yachts berthed here are foreign owned.  Friends of ours seeking a berth were surprised to be turned away while the docks were half-empty.  The slips were rented, just not used.  Arriving and departing Palma Harbor necessitates care as the ferries and cruise ships approach 40 knots as they near the harbor.

Due to the large number of German tourists, many restaurants and supermarkets offer a wide variety of German items, notably bratwurst, sauerkraut, beers of all German makes, and dark breads.

We dubbed Palma and the surrounding areas "the Deep South of Germany" when we realized how many yachts and second homes Germans owned on the island.  Entire villages are now foreign owned.

For many years, the people living on the coast of Mallorca were harassed and raided by pirates.  To protect their families and wealth, the towns moved their residents about two miles inland within fortified walls. This is the reason that there is a town of Andratx and a Port of Andratx, as well as a town and port of Soller, of Polenca, etc..

We landed at Puerto Andratx, conveniently located a day's sail east of Ibiza.  This is a safe, natural rectangular harbor of refuge with a relaxed local flavor. It is a cruiser's paradise with all the necessary amenities:  dinghy landing, garbage cans, easy access to buses, etc.  The town management is relaxed about formalities and promotes all levels of cruising. 

When we first arrived, we anchored in the outer harbor until swells from a nearby low pressure system motivated us to relocate inside.  Our new inner harbor anchorage provided us with many dramas:  storm anchors dragging from other boats, and a major fishing boat loosing steerage and zigzagging through the anchorage slinging fenders.

Several cruisers came to the rescue of the trawler using their dinks as push-tugs.  One anchor rode was cut, foul words were spoken, but in the end no major damage was done except for a few bruised egos.

The town and port of Soller lie midway up the northwest coast of Mallorca, nestled in a valley between rugged mountains.  A natural circular harbor, the port is visited daily by bus loads of tourists from Palma.  A classic port tram leaves every 30 minutes and meanders from the port to the train station in the town.  Five times daily a Victorian-era train chugs to Palma allowing passengers unique views of the countryside at a leisurely pace.  The promenade of day-trippers has spawned many beach shops, restaurants, and gift shops.  Thankfully the residents and boating guests once again retrieve their peaceful port in early evening to enjoy the sunset. 

We rented a car and drove the northwest part of Mallorca, the Sierra Tramuntana Mountains where we stumbled into Lluc.  The legend of the Sanctuary of Santa Maria at Lluc dates from the Catalan conquest of 1229.  A shepherd boy discovered a black statute of the Virgin in the mountains which was placed in a church, only to disappear and reappear once more in the same spot in the mountains.  The first chapel was built at the same site in 1268.  Now Lluc is a Catholic pilgrimage from Palma, a 48 kilometer trek which 30,000 pilgrims walk in one day each August. 

Each year more than a million people, pilgrims and tourists, visit the monastery where you can rent a Spartan room.  Santuari de Lluc, Despatx de cel-les, 07315 Lluc Mallorca, 971-871-525, 971-517-096 fax, email:  info@lluc.net.  While visiting the Monastery, attend either the morning or evening performance of Els Blavets, a boys choir singing since 1531.

We compiled more photos and restaurant recommendations for Mallorca.