Corsica
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We were not planning to visit Corsica as we happily meandered around the Madellena Archipelago of Sardinia.  However several other cruisers told us how different and wonderful it was, so we headed north for our last week east of the Baleares.

The cruiser's first impression of Corsica is that the mountains slope gracefully down to the sea, much like we expect the South Pacific to be.  But when you explore the interior, you experience many environments.  The most notable is the vast forests of chestnut, oak, and pine trees, all protected in a national reserve boasting 60% of the island.  Defense towers in the mountains protect the passes.  Over 65 defense towers around the coastline protected civilians from pirates invading from the sea.

Corsica is the home of the "vendetta".  Over the centuries men killed for honor, not money, making American McCoy-Hatfield feuds seem childish.  One vendetta accounted for over 20,000 dead in 30 years.  In the 1950's, the women of Corsica stopped vendettas by refusing to support either side at home.  No cooking, no scrubbing, no loving, if the killing continued.  Of course, vendettas are not good for tourism, either.

Mountain pass complete with train trestle, river bed, and motor highway

Example of small, secluded Corsican village hidden in the hills

Fortified towers guard the mountain passes from bandits.

Over 60 fortified towers guard the coastline from pirates.

Wild pigs are bred domestically and then released to feed in the wild until they are harvested for dinner.

The town garbage cans are "beautified" in a small, mountain village.

Ajaccio is the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte whose statues dominate the city squares.  The only major port on the west coast of Corsica, Ajaccio accommodates several large ferry services from mainland Europe. 

A major attraction in Ajaccio is the four hour train ride through the mountains to Bastia, a seaport on the northeast coast.  The train ride cost 24 € one way or 38 € round trip, and left Ajaccio early in the morning and Bastia late in the afternoon.  Since Bunny and Bill Bailey aboard Onset joined us, it was more economical to rent a car for the day.  The result was an amazing day of mountain views, including a side trip as a short-cut which took us to the top of several mountains with no guard rails on the road.  We were glad that the winds were not blowing 45 mph as we toured the mountain cliffs.

Most of the interior of Corsica is reserved in a National Park, a tribute to the Corsicans who welcome tourists but preserve the natural beauty of their homeland.

If a cruiser visited only one port of call in Corsica, we agree that it should be Bonifacio, a natural harbor wedged between limestone cliffs on the island's southern tip.  This city was originally built overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and is described accurately in Homer's Odyssey.  The harbor is a geological anomaly as no one can deduce where the rock originated.

Arriving is a thrill as you thread your way through departing vessels and watch your stern for overtaking ferries arriving from Ajaccio and Sardinia.  The docks line the northern cliff side of the town.  Vessel dances as water ingresses and egresses the tongue that defines the harbor and wind cascades down its natural funnel.

We found good provisioning at the Spar Supermarket beyond the pedestrian bridge at the far eastern side of the harbor.  We enjoyed our only evening meal at the Kissing Pigs Wine Bar, 15, quai Banda del Ferro, 04 95 73 56 09.  And we

Grotto or cave outside harbor entrance where tour boats explore hourly

Bonifacio Harbor entrance

View of western section of harbor where ferries dock

View of eastern section of harbor where private boats dock

Staying in front of the ferry

SHIBUMI (far right) nestled against two other yachts

Geologist Chris studying cliff formations

View of hilltop ancient city from harbor docks

French restaurants and shops line the quay

Looking for a place to med-moor for the first time in 4 months

Modern sculpture compliments the ancient city

Jackie hangs on to a mannequin after climbing to the hilltop, whew!

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