|
We were not planning to visit Corsica as
we happily meandered around the Madellena Archipelago of Sardinia.
However several other cruisers told us how different and wonderful it was,
so we headed north for our last week east of the Baleares.
The cruiser's first impression of
Corsica is that the mountains slope gracefully down to the sea, much like
we expect the South Pacific to be. But when you explore
the interior, you experience many environments. The most notable
is the vast forests of chestnut, oak, and pine trees, all protected in a
national reserve boasting 60% of the island. Defense towers in the mountains protect the passes.
Over 65 defense towers around the coastline protected civilians from
pirates invading from the
sea.
Corsica is the home of the "vendetta". Over
the centuries men killed for honor, not
money, making American McCoy-Hatfield feuds seem childish. One vendetta
accounted for over 20,000 dead in 30 years. In the 1950's, the women
of Corsica stopped vendettas by refusing to support either side at home.
No cooking, no scrubbing, no loving, if the killing continued. Of
course, vendettas are not good for tourism, either. |
 |

Mountain pass complete with train trestle, river bed, and
motor highway |

Example of small, secluded Corsican village hidden in the
hills |

Fortified towers guard the mountain passes from bandits. |

Over 60 fortified towers guard the coastline from pirates. |
 Wild pigs
are bred domestically and then released to feed in the wild until they are
harvested for dinner. |

The town garbage cans are "beautified" in a small, mountain
village. |
 |
Ajaccio is the birthplace of Napoleon
Bonaparte whose statues dominate the city squares. The only major port on
the west coast of Corsica, Ajaccio accommodates several large ferry
services from mainland Europe.
A major attraction in Ajaccio is the
four hour train ride through the mountains to Bastia, a seaport on the
northeast coast. The train ride cost 24 € one way or 38 € round
trip, and left Ajaccio early in the morning and Bastia late in the
afternoon. Since Bunny and Bill Bailey aboard Onset joined us, it
was more economical to rent a car for the day. The result was an
amazing day of mountain views, including a side trip as a short-cut which
took us to the top of several mountains with no guard rails on the road.
We were glad that the winds were not blowing 45 mph as we toured the
mountain cliffs. Most of the
interior of Corsica is reserved in a National Park, a tribute to the
Corsicans who welcome tourists but preserve the natural beauty of their
homeland. |
|
If a cruiser visited only one port of
call in Corsica, we agree that it should be Bonifacio, a natural harbor
wedged between limestone cliffs on the island's southern tip. This
city was originally built overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and is
described accurately in Homer's Odyssey. The harbor is a geological
anomaly as no one can deduce where the rock originated.
Arriving is a thrill as you thread your
way through departing vessels and watch your stern for overtaking ferries
arriving from Ajaccio and Sardinia. The docks line the northern
cliff side of the town. Vessel dances as water ingresses and
egresses the tongue that defines the harbor and wind cascades down its
natural funnel. We found good
provisioning at the Spar Supermarket beyond the pedestrian bridge at the
far eastern side of the harbor. We enjoyed our only evening meal at
the Kissing Pigs Wine Bar, 15, quai Banda del
Ferro, 04 95 73 56 09. And we |
 |

Grotto or cave outside harbor entrance where tour boats
explore hourly |

Bonifacio Harbor entrance |

View of western section of harbor where ferries dock |

View of eastern section of harbor where private boats dock |

Staying in front of the ferry |

SHIBUMI (far right) nestled against two other yachts |

Geologist Chris studying cliff formations |

View of hilltop ancient city from harbor docks |

French restaurants and shops line the quay |

Looking for a place to med-moor for the first time in 4
months |

Modern sculpture compliments the ancient city |

Jackie hangs on to a mannequin after climbing to the
hilltop, whew! |